Hannah Lucinda Smith

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Destination Expert

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Wednesday August 16 2023, 11:00am

Why you’ll love it

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Bodrum lies at the southernmost point of the Aegean coast and is a swish playground for rich, famous and beautiful Turks — as well the millions of tourists that touchdown each summer. Its sparkling marina, whitewashed houses and laid-back vibe has been immortalised in countless songs since it boomed from a small fishing village into a busy resort. The metamorphosis began in the 1960s, when Istanbul’s writers and artists began using it as their bolthole — and it’s still known as “little Istanbul” due to the number of city-dwellers with second homes there. The town itself, while still lovely, has become rather commercialised in recent decades, with huge hotels blighting parts of the area. However, the atmosphere is more chi-chi on the other side of town; the wealth gathers around the yacht harbour, and you’ll find the real glamour that Bodrum is renowned for out in the far reaches of the peninsula, where a dramatic coastline hosts hidden cove beaches and secret islets are dotted with detox retreats, designer bars and luxury hotels.

Main photo: Bodrum, Turkey (Alamy)

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What to do

Spend a day wandering through the maze of alleys that make up Bodrum’s old town, once the place where artisans sold their wares, and now where souvenir shops and fish restaurants will try and tempt you inside. It’s easy to forget that you’re so close to the sea when you’re deep in the town’s web of shaded passageways — expect to be suddenly reminded with a glimpse of a bolt of blue through a gap in the buildings. The town’s main landmark is the Castle of St Peter, built by the Knights Hospitaller in the 15th century, on the site of an even older castle. A visit will teach you about the history of this long-contested corner of the world; during the Ottoman era its chapel was converted into a mosque with an added minaret. Make time too for the adjoining underwater archaeology museum — it’s stuffed with ancient shipwrecks discovered in the Aegean.

Souvenir shops and fish restaurants will try and tempt you inside

A day trip by boat will whisk you to Catal island, a mile off the coast at the end of the Bodrum peninsula. Climb to the top of one of the three hills that give it its name — “fork island” — for panoramic views over the mainland.

Where to stay

Planning to bed down in town? Stick to the area around the marina — it’s made up of tempting boutique hotels in traditional Bodrum houses. For low-cost package holiday, try the near by Gumbet district for all-inclusives as well as a lively strip of clubs and bars. Families will be better served in Bitez, which is less frenetic and has great water sports on offer. Turgutreis, a 30-minute drive from Bodrum, is another good base — it’s relaxed and secluded, with a large population of British expats.

For the famed Bodrum glamour, try Yalikavak and Turkbuku: two of the most exclusive parts of the peninsula. A landmark in the former is the ruins of three of the distinctive stone windmills that this part of Turkey is famous for, while its marina is crammed with glitzy restaurants. Gumusluk has more of a bohemian artistic vibe and hosts an annual music festival.

Food and drink

With this region being a magnet for the international jetset, it’s only befitting that it’s home to some of Turkey’s finest restaurants, serving Turkish and global cuisine with plenty of pizzazz.

Expect lots of fresh grilled vegetables drizzled in olive oil, yoghurt dips and fish

Palmarina in Yalikavak is the place to head for an upmarket meal where you can guess the costs of the mega-yachts as you tuck in. Local dishes have a heavy Greek flavour, unsurprising given its location — the island of Kos is visible on a clear day and can be reached in 45 minutes by boat. Expect lots of fresh grilled vegetables drizzled in olive oil, yoghurt dips and fish. Desserts are a less healthy affair, but there are a few regional specialities worth the calories. Sarayli — the dessert “of the palace” — is as rich as you would expect, a baklava-esque concoction of flaky pastry, honey and nuts, but with the addition of sherbet stuffing. Katmer offers the same mouth-watering combination of flavours, but comes assembled as flat pockets. Both can be served with kaymak, a type of clotted cream that is also sublime when combined with honey at the end of a Turkish breakfast.

Don’t miss

There are several international festivals in Bodrum, and the biggest is for ballet, held in July and August, followed by a Baroque festival in September. Both use the town’s best features as venues — you could watch a show at Bodrum Castle or the amphitheatre of the ancient city of Halicarnassus. There are also a number of other dance and music festivals throughout the year, and a biennale to appease art lovers.

You could watch a show at Bodrum Castle or the amphitheatre of the ancient city of Halicarnassus

Head to the Zeki Muren Arts Museum to be introduced to modern Turkish music. It’s dedicated to Muren, a singer who unites every Turk, and whose vocals are the soundtrack to most evenings spent in traditional Turkish mezze restaurants. When Muren died in 1996, he left all his assets to Turkish educational charities, and in return they turned his house into this museum, replete with a bronze statue of him, microphone in hand.

Know before you go

The local currency is the lira, and international cards are accepted everywhere. If you choose self-catered accommodation, familiarise yourself with Migros, Turkey’s answer to Tesco, for affordable picnic supplies. Be prepared to bargain at Bodrum’s bazaars; vendors expect a stiff negotiation with every sale.

This part of Turkey is extremely liberal, bar the fact that topless sunbathing is illegal, and you can wear anything unless you want to enter a mosque (opt for something that goes over the knees and bring a jacket to cover your shoulders). Don’t be tempted to take home any relics you might come across — it’s a crime to do so, and Brits have been landed in prison for it. If you do find anything old-looking, hand it in to the authorities. Be careful when driving; the roads are narrow and winding around the coast, and Turks like to drive fast.

The Times Traveler